You have to be careful with the bolt length and the height of the nuts. When it is at full up position, there isnt much room & if you make it too long it will stop the window going all the way up.
I also found that to get the top of the window to touch the rubbers, the bottom needs to be right out (on the 430 I will be cutting a long flap into the bottom of the pug outer door skin to allow more movement). If the window binds before it gets to the bottom stop, it then takes force to lift the window. If this force is too much it gets into a cycle going quickly up and down and gets all confused. Too damned intelligent for its own good! I added a physical stop to the sliders before the window gets to the lowest position to prevent this.
Ideally you should stay with the standard pug set up of balls etc, but if yours is worn (or no clips!!!
) and new ones dont sort it, this is a way to get it working. Its not an officially recommended method etc, just how i found to get it done!
(phew - disclaimer out of the way)
I also spaced the winder mecahnism away from the door by about 20mm at the lock end. I put it on an adjustable bolt so I could play and find the best spacer.
Also I found that to ge the roller slider angled enough for the window to touch the rubbers at the top, I had to cut the door lock electrical connection plug to allow enough clearance.
Reasonable stuff, just takes lots of fiddling, lots of swearing and your hands and arms look like you are into self harming by the time you have finished..
The next lot on my 430 should be a breeze now I know what to do! Heheheh!