Author Topic: Cooling the 360- & overheating  (Read 12402 times)

Mickey_London

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #15 on: June 06, 2016, 08:46:00 PM »
Cheers Lacie
I think I will make the holes bigger in my bumper and get some Facia board and make up a splitter
A lot cheaper if it works haha
Mick

Here are the holes I made. I think they can do with being bigger
http://extremeoc.co.uk/index.php?topic=2636.msg24463#msg24463

360brian

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #16 on: June 06, 2016, 08:50:16 PM »
I fitted a fan override switch in the coin tray on the dash yesterday, so I can have them both on at full blast, all of the time. I made up a short bracket to use in an emergency, to hold the rear of the bonnet up like this, so I can get home.



I didn't get around to removing the Aircon condenser rad, it was quite difficult to access. Does anyone use their aircon??

Ordered a pair of 3" Bilge blowers as used in the engine bays of boats, which I'll use to pull air into the wheel arches from the back of the engine bay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201481763752?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Drove my car at a steady 50mph, for a reasonable 2.5 hour drive, yes everything was overtaking me, but my eye was on the temp gauge, both fans running constantly and it was a relatively hot day. The temperature stayed put, thankfully, so I didn't need to open the bonnet, the wings felt cool to the touch, unlike the other day. I'll still fit the bilge blowers. Another idea is to use titanium fibre heat wrap on the downpipes, its fairly cheap and quite effective, especially after taking the revs up- worth a try.

Also interesting added emergency incoming airflow would be to use the slide-in type number plate holder at the front, drill some siezable holds behind, and them just slip the number plate out, in an emergency *(eg when there are long tailbacks, and you're a long way from home).

This is an interesting discussion, lets see if we can nail it. I do wonder how many of these cars are driven for long periods, I want to drive mine through Europe next year.

Lacie

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #17 on: June 06, 2016, 09:13:05 PM »
Cheers Lacie
I think I will make the holes bigger in my bumper and get some Facia board and make up a splitter
A lot cheaper if it works haha
Mick

Here are the holes I made. I think they can do with being bigger
http://extremeoc.co.uk/index.php?topic=2636.msg24463#msg24463

I’d leave the hole sizes as they are and if you do suffer from overheating, rather than increase the size of the holes you could just adapt the under tray instead. Its a careful balance and a case of experimenting. With a modified under tray you can use smaller holes under the bumper than if you have no under tray whereby you would need larger holes in the bumper. ;)

The only thing to watch for is that your bonnet is securely down. Because of the different design, there’s increased pressure at the fore and my bonnet catch popped out - it was down to poor fitting/fibreglassing of the nuts that are fitted inside the bonnet but its something to be wary of.

Lacie

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #18 on: June 06, 2016, 09:17:06 PM »
Another idea is to use titanium fibre heat wrap on the downpipes, its fairly cheap and quite effective, especially after taking the revs up- worth a try.

Thats worth trying, it would certainly help bring the bay temperature down.

I really don’t think many have been driven for extended periods, or at least on motorways. As Alex mentioned, it may be why so many are sold pretty quickly.

360brian

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #19 on: June 07, 2016, 12:28:21 PM »
I like the idea of these holes, even better if its possible to make flaps that can be opened electronically to direct the air into them (and withstand airflow at higher speed), I'll look into this,

Cheers Lacie
I think I will make the holes bigger in my bumper and get some Facia board and make up a splitter
A lot cheaper if it works haha
Mick

Here are the holes I made. I think they can do with being bigger
http://extremeoc.co.uk/index.php?topic=2636.msg24463#msg24463

360brian

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #20 on: June 07, 2016, 01:15:08 PM »
Ideally something like this would be perfect for the engine airflow, BUT thats going to ruin those pretty F360 lines and mess up the look, I cant bring myself to do this:


Alex360

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #21 on: June 07, 2016, 04:32:30 PM »
Not me either, although don't even think that type of grill would fit in mine as the bonnet is pretty much touching the engine now, so it would have to be sitting on top of the bonnet....ouch
P.S.
Did anyone see deep pockets Dennis ferrari on fast and loud, I am sure I spotted a large intake on his bonnet, for what reason I have no clue, or is the 550 front engine?
Found a pic, below

Errr, JD, hope you have some of my paint left, I feel a bonnet scoop coming on!! Lol

Cheers

Alex360
« Last Edit: June 07, 2016, 04:44:31 PM by Alex360 »

Mickey_London

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #22 on: June 07, 2016, 06:09:50 PM »
If it is necessary to end up having to put some sort of scoops, I think that the 250 GTO and 612 GTO Concept have a nice look and would try to replicate the holes from that

Just my opinion though  ;)
Fingers crossed it won't come to that
Mick
« Last Edit: June 07, 2016, 06:19:07 PM by Mickey_London »

Mickey_London

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #23 on: June 07, 2016, 07:45:53 PM »
This is my very very very crude attempt at Photoshopping but hopefully you get the picture


Mick

Lacie

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #24 on: June 07, 2016, 08:31:42 PM »
If it is necessary to end up having to put some sort of scoops..

It isn’t Mick. Your car will very likely run hotter if you fit a bonnet scoop.

Bonnet scoops perform as a cold air intake to the engine, act as a ram air intake or expose the intercooler to air pressure. Unless you figure a way to increase exit flow capacity under the bonnet or you place the scoops before the radiator, the efficiency of the cooling system will drop.

The air scoop will scoop in the air behind the radiator, the pressure in the engine bay will increase and that will reduce the amount of air that can flow freely through your radiator - your car then runs hotter.

The vents that 355Brian posted are the ones you would need, they increase the airflow leaving the engine bay which reduces pressure in the engine bay and increases the airflow through the radiator. However, rather than cut holes in the bonnet if you want to improve air exit performance you can just modify the under tray.

dman1409

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #25 on: June 07, 2016, 08:32:00 PM »
I know the f430/360 has these slits in the wheel arch liners for cooling the brakes... I have allready replicated these for my build... But they are not expensive to buy oem... This also might improve the airflow...

Ps: i'm sooooooo glad this issue is brought up before my Build! I will definatly go for a radiator in the back as i want a performance upgrade also..

« Last Edit: June 07, 2016, 08:35:19 PM by dman1409 »

Mickey_London

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #26 on: June 07, 2016, 09:00:10 PM »
Hi Lacie
It was a quick mock up. The holes would be in the little panel that is bonded between the wings, and not the bonnet.
If it had some sort of ducting from them down to the front of the radiator could that still cause an issue with the exiting of the air
Thanks for all your input into this
Mick

Lacie

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #27 on: June 07, 2016, 10:23:58 PM »
Hi Mick

The problem with ducting is that because the entrance to the ducting has a small surface area, air will collect faster in the duct mouth than on the centre wing and eventually, at a certain speed or wind resistance, the air pressure in the ducting will exceed the air pressure on the centre wing.

As soon as the the air pressure in the ducting exceeds the air pressure on the wing, the air flow in the ducting will just reverse itself because air will always move to an area of lower pressure. So, air will now suck out of the ducting and back onto the wing/bonnet.

At what point the air flow will reverse is determined by mass air flow rate calculations and it takes into account a number of factors such as the cross sectional diameter of the ducting, its shape, its length, bends etc. Apparently, rigid oval plastic is the best type of ducting but its maximum and minimum lengths are determined by the cross sectional diameters. Its math I don’t want to try  ;D

Since the heating problem occurs with driving on the motorway, I think ducting could make the problem worse. As you increase speed, you increase the likelihood that the ducting will just reverse its airflow and that would increase pressure in the engine bay and then you increase the chance of overheating…I’m not suggesting it won’t work, it might. Its just that without the math it becomes a game of guesswork and I personally don’t want to spend the next 6 months trying to fine tune ducting.

IMO, I think the holes in the bumper would provide the best starting point. Add a lip to direct air into those holes and then if it still overheats you can modify the under tray.

360brian

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #28 on: June 07, 2016, 11:51:08 PM »
Do you guys have a windscreen scuttle like the one I have?



Looks a bit tricky to add vents to it, from the rear of the engine bay, like my old MR2 355 had, as its hard up against the bulkhead, buy would have been a reasonable idea

dman1409

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Re: Cooling the 360- & overheating
« Reply #29 on: June 08, 2016, 12:26:35 AM »
Can you guys shoot some pics from different angles of the engine bay where the radiator sits? I like to get a better understanding of how its positioned...


 

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