Author Topic: Phils F430 build diary  (Read 23124 times)

mag

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #15 on: November 04, 2011, 05:42:50 PM »
This is what happens if you do!

mag

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #16 on: November 04, 2011, 05:48:44 PM »
so moved mine...

mag

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #17 on: November 04, 2011, 05:54:00 PM »
and now looks like this  ;D

mag

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #18 on: November 04, 2011, 06:25:04 PM »
this is how much more you need to cut off the back off the car...hope this helps..

phils99

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #19 on: November 05, 2011, 09:38:12 AM »
great info Mag...I talked to Damian at Extreme and he says that you just hammer them in!!

I will decide when I come to dry fit....

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phils99

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #20 on: November 05, 2011, 09:44:13 AM »
Today I thought I would work on one of the doors and detail that for you guys....

Firstly disconnect the door inner lever



Pull off this pivot point and disconnect the arms



look inside the door and pop off this arm from the lock



A bit of bending will get this out of the door, you can then disconnect it from the door lever



Then undo the 2 bolts that hold the outer door handle on, you will then be able to remove the door lock by lightly prising the top part of this gold coloured piece from the handle assembly



Marking out the area around the handle to cut out



using the supplied "hockey stick" to mark the inner door to cut



all marked up...notice the lower markings are made using the outer side of the hockey stick, whereas the top marking is from the inner part of the hockey stick



door handle cut out and the outer door marked by laying on the new door and marking around



Door cut off!!



then rest the door and the end cap in place..

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dangerrous

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #21 on: November 05, 2011, 02:49:48 PM »
very detailed, this will be an envious diary
D

phils99

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #22 on: November 08, 2011, 10:03:45 AM »
Roof cutting day and removal of the front seats!

Electric heated seats....what a lot of wires!!!



seats out, dash and carpet protected...I see many of these builds where they leave these uncovered and they end up looking a mess!



Outside marking of the B pillar



Inside marking of the B pillar



Marking front of roof



B pillar cut, Question: how do you get the B pillar to line up exactly as it did before, as you have bent the roof, so the pillar
has a slight angle now? of does it matter? I have checked build threads and it looks like they have lined it up...how?



see here its now left of the main body slightly!!



A pillar cut, i noticed a small kink appearing just at the top of the lower cut after bending roof...it this correct?



A pillar cut.....do i remove all of the lower parts inner skin?



roof now cut.......just need to get measurements right before its fit to weld.....


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Drew355

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #23 on: November 08, 2011, 12:29:25 PM »
Hi mate, Looking really good!! Before you weld those B pillars and the door extension piece make sure your lines running up through where the window will go are nice and even. It will make the fitting of the windows so much easier. I am completing someone elses car at the moment and this area isnt even so the angle grinder is going to have to come out to attack a painted car Arghhh!  :o

I will get some pics up asap of what I mean.

Also whilst you have tha access make sure that impact bar comes out and the window runners goes in ok. Also (sorry for all the also's!!!) make sure the gap where the window comes out of at the top is even all the way along the top of the door when you weld it.

I have actually used a cable to operate my door handles. Im not saying there is anythign wrong with the extreme method, but any adjustments are very fiddly once its all together. I used a piece of accelerator cable inner and outer to transfer the movement of the handle to the lock mechanism. the outer is fixed to the meatl pug door near the handle then loops round and comes into the bottom of the door lock again where the outer is fixed to the metal door skin. This transfers all of the handle movement tot he lock and means you dont need to weld in the old pug handle or the levers etc.

I found the old repositioned door handle got in the way of the window movement and also the rods werent smoothly transferring the movement as they had too much slop.

Like I said I have been finishing part builds, so yours may be much better. Just thought I would mention this other option. (you do need to make sure water cant get in the cable sleeve once fitted though & that the cable is well oiled prior to fitting)

Drew355

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #24 on: November 08, 2011, 12:45:17 PM »
This is the area I was meaning about being even. If you look at the lip where the door/window rubber sits on, this gets narrower towards the bottom of the B pillar. If you leave it like this, the window gets pushed outwards from the bottom & you cant get it to close properly at the top.



This is a pic of the door from the top. This door wasnt even (gap should be the same as the mirror end right along & all the work at the hockeystick end had to be cut out and re welded again. Not pretty once it has been painted!!



Sorry didnt mean to hijack your build diary, looks like you are doing everything spot on so far, just thought I would let you know about a few pitfalls I have found that several builders have fallen into. Will shut up now!!
« Last Edit: November 08, 2011, 12:56:58 PM by Drew355 »

phils99

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #25 on: November 08, 2011, 02:20:40 PM »
hey Drew...jump in whenever you like with great advice like that!!

Have you got any picks of how you cabled up the door handles, I was also thinking of using cable (having seen the DNA solution)..

Also (im doing it now!!) I had a question above about the B pillar being inline exactly with the body, I am talking about the bit circled...does it need to be exactly in line? if so, how, as, if I try to pull the bottom of the b pillar towards the back of the car, it wont budge!!

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Extreme Sportscars

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #26 on: November 09, 2011, 12:05:35 AM »
Quote
A pillar cut, i noticed a small kink appearing just at the top of the lower cut after bending roof...it this correct?


Did you prize the two spot welds apart at the bottem of the a-pillar. This should be done before bending of the roof. There located on the car behind the wing mirror suppport. When the roof is done this is then re-welded.
« Last Edit: November 09, 2011, 01:09:29 AM by wazenzo »
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phils99

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #27 on: November 09, 2011, 07:09:22 AM »
Yes I did, I used a chisel to split the join....if you push down on the roof, the surely that will make the cut off b pillar have a slight angle whatever you do?
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phils99

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #28 on: November 21, 2011, 04:17:29 PM »
Decided to remove the headlight housings today...be careful and remember to unbolt

the header tank mount before you cut the headlight housing away!! luckily, I didnt go

deep with the grinder so got away with it!!



Housing removed



On the otherside, I missed this wire, but its only to the bonnet catch for the

alarm?, anyway, its easily rejoined if needed.



Now I will move the header tank...Battery removed



Header tank mounting supplied in the kit now fitted



Remove the top pipe and the electrics from the header tank



after unbolting, I can now get at the lower pipe easier....I will mount the header

tank later, as I need some rubber pipe to run to it which I havent got...



So...for inspiration again, I thought I would lay the kit on the car....














Bye bye for now....until next time!!
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phils99

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Re: Phils F430 build diary
« Reply #29 on: November 28, 2011, 01:40:33 PM »
Thought I would have a go at the fuse box mounting tray, firstly, I marked a line
around it as so.



I then cut round that line, effrectively cutting it in half!



Lid still fits



Putting it back on.



Lid back on, still no idea where to mount it! think I will just leave it behind the
header tank for now unless I see a better idea. This will mean wing/frontend removal
to change a fuse!!



Watching the video, Extreme say, "now mount the aircon onto the supplied header tank
bracket"! I couldnt get it anywhere near, so I removed the aircon mounting bracket and drilled a hole in the opposite end of it



Had to remove the old battery tray bracket to get the header tank in....



Header tank/aircon fitted and top pipe rerouted so that I can cut off the excess at
the join.



Right wing now sits on the strut and the front bracket - all good, just need to
extend the washer filler to complete this side.



Left wing now sits on the strut and the front bracket - all good



Next, the doors...the middle piece of metal needs the "hump" flattening to get a good
fit for the "hockey stick"



hockey stick now welded in place (my FIRST weld EVER!!!!!!)



door end cap now on, this doesnt go on as easy as it does in the video....the door
outer panel needs pulling in to meet the end cap...also, notice the "step in" just
below the door latch cutout...the drivers end cap doesnt have this??



Thats all for now.....
I wish I was rich!!

 

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